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Post by greybeard on Feb 7, 2020 10:00:36 GMT -6
Good video as usual. Short and to the point. Next time tho, close your truck door (or is that the bell from your post driving machine?)
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Post by backhoeboogie on Feb 9, 2020 2:23:45 GMT -6
For the first time in a long time, I'm seeing a lot of bottom wire failures..feral hogs I presume. Gripples are a lifesaver for fixing that. Tried crimp ferrules for awhile. After a year or so, the wire rusts under the crimp and the crimp repair separates. Getting pretty standard to leave that bottom wire up 12- 14 inches so the pigs can just go under. I never understood bottom strands 6 or 8 inches off the ground anyway.
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Post by greybeard on Feb 9, 2020 5:37:21 GMT -6
They didn't start off that low. 45 years of dead decaying leaves & other plant matter builds up the ground under the fences in my part of the world.
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Post by brightraven on Feb 9, 2020 6:10:03 GMT -6
I will say I've seen a dozen are so failers. Including every single tclip failing on a 13 linewire net. Seems to be related to cold wet weather. I think moisture gets inside and freezes. The dozen are so failed are out of conservative 10,000 $ worth of gripples. I'm sure Ravens is greater. Also you shouldn't be stretching wire with them. Just like you shouldn't be stretching wire with a goldenrod. You don't have to be an asshole about it Scooter! I have you to know that I use a come along to stretch and I tie off with my goldenrod. That is fence I built on the frontage road for Fire Sweep. Their son helped me. BTW: I have used Barb gripples and they still slip. I guess I exceed the tension. Here is something that I really find useful. The brace kit.
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Post by fence on Feb 9, 2020 7:09:38 GMT -6
I will say I've seen a dozen are so failers. Including every single tclip failing on a 13 linewire net. Seems to be related to cold wet weather. I think moisture gets inside and freezes. The dozen are so failed are out of conservative 10,000 $ worth of gripples. I'm sure Ravens is greater. Also you shouldn't be stretching wire with them. Just like you shouldn't be stretching wire with a goldenrod. You don't have to be an asshole about it Scooter! I have you to know that I use a come along to stretch and I tie off with my goldenrod. That is fence I built on the frontage road for Fire Sweep. Their son helped me. BTW: I have used Barb gripples and they still slip. I guess I exceed the tension. Here is something that I really find useful. The brace kit. Good technique there but What's the purpose of that H brace right in the middle of a straight line??
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Post by brightraven on Feb 9, 2020 7:28:15 GMT -6
You don't have to be an asshole about it Scooter! I have you to know that I use a come along to stretch and I tie off with my goldenrod. That is fence I built on the frontage road for Fire Sweep. Their son helped me. BTW: I have used Barb gripples and they still slip. I guess I exceed the tension. Here is something that I really find useful. The brace kit. Good technique there but What's the purpose of that H brace right in the middle of a straight line?? I knew you would find something wrong. That stretch of fence begins at a gate brace at the end of the direction that photo was taken. We put in a new brace at the gate. Where this brace is located is the middle of the new fence. I put a brace just like this at the other end. This brace was at the high point of the line. I stretched the fence in two separate pieces to this brace.
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Post by highgrit on Feb 9, 2020 7:41:35 GMT -6
Looks like a million bucks to me, there's nothing like that around this place.
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Post by fence on Feb 9, 2020 8:37:32 GMT -6
Looks like a million bucks to me, there's nothing like that around this place. Check with your local farm bureau and nrcs office. They will often pay a good portion on a new fence.
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Post by bulltrader on Feb 9, 2020 8:48:38 GMT -6
Looks like a million bucks to me, there's nothing like that around this place. Check with your local farm bureau and nrcs office. They will often pay a good portion on a new fence. But they normally won't pay for a boundary fence or a fence along s public road.
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Post by brightraven on Feb 9, 2020 10:21:27 GMT -6
Andy. I have a question.
At Fire Sweep in Missouri, the fencelines are fairly level but even there if you have a long stretch, the distance from the highest spot to the lowest spot can be several feet. To deal with that, I put in braces to pull to. Otherwise you can encounter situations where after stretching and before putting in the posts, you can have the strands of wire several feet off the ground. I cope with that by putting in braces at high spots and low spots. I suppose you have a way to bring that wire down to the post. Is that correct? Here on my farm, I don't see how you would do that. In some cases the wire would be 20 feet off the ground.
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Post by fence on Feb 9, 2020 10:58:37 GMT -6
Andy. I have a question. At Fire Sweep in Missouri, the fencelines are fairly level but even there if you have a long stretch, the distance from the highest spot to the lowest spot can be several feet. To deal with that, I put in braces to pull to. Otherwise you can encounter situations where after stretching and before putting in the posts, you can have the strands of wire several feet off the ground. I cope with that by putting in braces at high spots and low spots. I suppose you have a way to bring that wire down to the post. Is that correct? Here on my farm, I don't see how you would do that. In some cases the wire would be 20 feet off the ground. Yes we drive pipe post in the low spots. As deep as possible. Weld a bolt on it at ground level and pull the wire down hang it on the bolt and tie it to the post with staytuff pipe ties. This is only needed on pretty extreme dips. You don't need a brace, I honestly can't see why you think you do. All you need is something that won't pull out of the ground. Or course your ground is softer. I was ridiculed on one video I did for a post driven in rock not perfectly plumb.. many Pipe post in fractured rock get plumbed after their driven. You simply bend them plumb. They don't wallow out...lol.. as far high spots you don't need to do anything different. A brace in the middle of a straight line. Less than a half mile is a waste of time and materials. Unless you're crossing a area that floods. Why didn't you put a diagonal pipe brace on the H?
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Post by fence on Feb 9, 2020 11:11:50 GMT -6
Now on very large valley or dips you can stretch your wire but don't make it off then back off your come along until you can pull the wire down to the Deadman post tie it and tighten your come along back up. On the most extreme it might be best to put a brace and break the wire at the brace. In this situation I use a A brace. Never a H
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Post by fence on Feb 9, 2020 11:18:59 GMT -6
Check with your local farm bureau and nrcs office. They will often pay a good portion on a new fence. But they normally won't pay for a boundary fence or a fence along s public road. That sounds right. Reckon they'd pay for a well?
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Post by brightraven on Feb 9, 2020 11:29:51 GMT -6
Andy. I have a question. At Fire Sweep in Missouri, the fencelines are fairly level but even there if you have a long stretch, the distance from the highest spot to the lowest spot can be several feet. To deal with that, I put in braces to pull to. Otherwise you can encounter situations where after stretching and before putting in the posts, you can have the strands of wire several feet off the ground. I cope with that by putting in braces at high spots and low spots. I suppose you have a way to bring that wire down to the post. Is that correct? Here on my farm, I don't see how you would do that. In some cases the wire would be 20 feet off the ground. Yes we drive pipe post in the low spots. As deep as possible. Weld a bolt on it at ground level and pull the wire down hang it on the bolt and tie it to the post with staytuff pipe ties. This is only needed on pretty extreme dips. You don't need a brace, I honestly can't see why you think you do. All you need is something that won't pull out of the ground. Or course your ground is softer. I was ridiculed on one video I did for a post driven in rock not perfectly plumb.. many Pipe post in fractured rock get plumbed after their driven. You simply bend them plumb. They don't wallow out...lol.. as far high spots you don't need to do anything different. A brace in the middle of a straight line. Less than a half mile is a waste of time and materials. Unless you're crossing a area that floods. Why didn't you put a diagonal pipe brace on the H? Fire Sweep bought the braces at a welding shop in Springfield. Amazing place. I went and picked them up. They had several sizes of prebuilt braces. I have not seen a place like that around here. Everyone here fences with treated posts.
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Post by silverback on Feb 9, 2020 11:30:40 GMT -6
Andy. I have a question. At Fire Sweep in Missouri, the fencelines are fairly level but even there if you have a long stretch, the distance from the highest spot to the lowest spot can be several feet. To deal with that, I put in braces to pull to. Otherwise you can encounter situations where after stretching and before putting in the posts, you can have the strands of wire several feet off the ground. I cope with that by putting in braces at high spots and low spots. I suppose you have a way to bring that wire down to the post. Is that correct? Here on my farm, I don't see how you would do that. In some cases the wire would be 20 feet off the ground. Yes we drive pipe post in the low spots. As deep as possible. Weld a bolt on it at ground level and pull the wire down hang it on the bolt and tie it to the post with staytuff pipe ties. This is only needed on pretty extreme dips. You don't need a brace, I honestly can't see why you think you do. All you need is something that won't pull out of the ground. Or course your ground is softer. I was ridiculed on one video I did for a post driven in rock not perfectly plumb.. many Pipe post in fractured rock get plumbed after their driven. You simply bend them plumb. They don't wallow out...lol.. as far high spots you don't need to do anything different. A brace in the middle of a straight line. Less than a half mile is a waste of time and materials. Unless you're crossing a area that floods. Why didn't you put a diagonal pipe brace on the H? Exactly the info I was wondering about. Thanks
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